Canadian Taxation Woes

There’s a move afoot to tax wines made from 100% Canadian grapes, and the Canadian Vintners Association (CVA) isn’t impressed – neither are we.

The European Union (EU), the world’s largest producer and exporter of wine, accounts for 50% of the Canadian market and its wine-producers are supported by over $2.3 billion in annual subsidies – support Canadian wineries currently don’t enjoy for either domestic or export production.However, the EU is considering WTO action against Canada over a small excise duty exemption that applies to only 5% of Canadian producers’ sales – an exemption currently also granted to domestic producers in the United States and Australia.

Above: watering the vines at Burrowing Owl, one of Canada's many award winning wineries.

Why the EU appears to be singling out Canadian producers and leaving both US and Aussie producers alone is anyone’s guess. But CVA president Dan Paszkowski believes many of Canada’s smaller wineries need this excise measure to help level the competitive playing field, so he’s launched a new website where Canadian wine lovers can log on and support the domestic wine industry. You can check it out for yourself at www.supportcanadianwines.com.

FYI:

The Canadian Vintners Association (CVA) and its predecessor, the Canadian Wine Institute (CWI), has a mission statement: “To encourage the growth and development of a vibrant, competitive, and economically viable Canadian wine industry through focused leadership.” Some of the ways they achieve this include:

- Initiating development of the first Canadian national quality standard for wine in 1996.
- Advocating labelling regulations that are fully transparent and informative for the consumer, while being commercially acceptable to the wine industry.
- Participating in wine and health symposia and providing financial support for research
- Coordinating an annual export strategy for Canadian wine that has successfully obtained over $2 million dollars in export funding from the federal government over the past few years.
- Initiated and reached agreement with Germany and Austria on an International Icewine Standard that played a fundamental role in enhancing Canada’s terms of access to the European Union.

The CVA also awards scholarships at the following post-secondary institutions:
Brock University
Niagara College Foundation
Okanagan University College
University of British Columbia
University of Guelph

www.canadianvintners.com

Celebrating British Columbia's Wine Industry

If you’re a regular reader of our blog, you probably already know both Frank and I are big time fans of the BC Wine Appreciation Society (BCWAS). Now more than 140 members strong, BCWAS brings together a diverse, vibrantly eclectic mix of wine aficionados, wine newbies, and unabashed wine geeks – yes, that would be the crowd who can intelligently discuss residual sugar and malolactic fermentation numbers with Frank.

But no matter what the event, laughter and camaraderie are always the true “main course” – no stuffiness allowed here. It is certainly the first organization either of us have ever belonged to where a member actually had the chutzpah to suggest “we’re all about enjoying wine so let’s adjourn, sip some wine, and socialize so we can really get down to business” at an AGM. The motion was passed unanimously, and within less than a quarter of an hour we had committed volunteers on board for membership coordinator, events coordinator, and newsletter editor.

Over the past two years, word is spreading. At our event last month (shown above), we were privileged to taste several wines that remain completely unavailable to the general public or even many exclusive local restaurants. But don’t take our word for it, check out the BC Wine Appreciation Society for yourself at www.bcwas.com, and when you visit in person, be sure to come over and say hi – we’d love to meet you.

Here’s an introduction to one of the founding members of one of the best wine associations going.

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Getting to Know Tim Ellison
Originally published in the April 2006 BCWAS newsletter

He’s dynamic, bubbling with enthusiasm, and unfailingly generous with both his time and his knowledge. Teaching a wine appreciation class dressed in a traditional Japanese obi doesn’t faze him in the slightest. Nor, it seems, does most anything else. He considers himself a hospitality enthusiast although he’s been a chef, the proprietor of his own restaurant, and is currently a much sought after instructor at the Art Institute. Who else could it be but our own Tim Ellison.

Known for his devilishly quick wit and flamboyant charm – don’t you just love a man with the élan to make a pink and orange striped shirt look outright fantastic – Tim, along with Francis Dorsemaine, was one of the founding members of the BC Wine Appreciation and remains an avid supporter of our British Columbia wine industry. Check out any of Vancouver’s wine events, and you’ll likely find him there expanding his already extensive knowledge. After all, it’s tough work but someone has to do it.

Although he’d long been fascinated with the relationship between food and wine, Tim’s journey into “the wild and wonderful world of wines” didn’t truly begin until 1988. “I was on a road trip through Oregon’s Wette Valley. It had been an exceptional year for winemaking in 1985, so the shelves were packed with all these great wines. It really piqued my interest, to the point I started reading and visiting the wineries just to educate myself.”

In no time Tim was hooked. But it was more than a decade before he took formal training. “I waited forever because I was actually afraid of failure,” he admits. “The thought of doing a blind taste testing was downright scary.”

Eventually, though, he signed up for the first level of the International Sommeliers Guild certification, ultimately graduating from the program in 2003. “It was like a light went on,” he says, adding that the biggest surprise was just how much influence the winery and winemaking techniques has on what ends up in the bottle. “The mystification was gone, no more misconceptions because now it was all based on fact.” Now also enrolled in the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) diploma program, Tim has his sights set firmly on gaining the prestigious Master of Wine designation.

Last fall, Tim made yet another career shift when he took on the responsibility of teaching full-time at the Art Institute. “It’s such a privilege to be able to contribute to people’s success, to help them avoid the mistakes I did and get there sooner,” he says. “When I read about them in the newspaper or visit them in their own restaurant… there’s no feeling to compare.” He laughs. “Actually, my students typically end up teaching me almost as much as I teach them because they have such a variety of backgrounds and experiences – I just don’t usually tell them that.”

Tim offers this advice for anyone interested in a wine career. “Just go for it. Don’t think about the expense, don’t be afraid of blind taste testings. You absolutely don’t need to be intimidated. Pursue the passion and you will get there.”

Wine Quote of the Day April 14, 2007

Here's one we came across the other day that really sums up a great attitude to life.

Excellent wine generates enthusiasm. And whatever you do with enthusiasm is generally successful.

Philippe de Rothschild in conversation, 1980

The World's Most Useless Wine Accessory?

And now for something completely different. I think I have discovered the world’s most useless, utterly pointless wine accessory – the Champagne Parachute.

Here’s the premise. When you fire the cork out of a bottle of sparkling wine, the parachute enables you to follow its trajectory and find it.

The entire underlying idea here is just plain faulty, wrong – so wrong I can’t even find the right adjectives to express how bad this is. The thought of firing a cork out of the bottle – which will cause the wine to froth out and wasting one of life’s basic food groups – leaves me at a complete loss. Why anyone would do this, I can’t imagine. Morally it has to be wrong. I suspect it’s dangerous as well.

The correct way to open champagne without hurting anyone or damaging the champagne is really quite simple. Remove the foil and cage, hold the cork down with your thumb, and twist the bottle – not the cork, the bottle. Counter-intuitive I know but no one loses an eye, windows don’t get broken. You’ll get a gentle, sensual pop, no wine wasted by fizzing all over you or the floor, and better yet, the bubbles actually last longer. Trust me, Susan and I have run repeated tests to ensure the accuracy of this statement.

If anyone finds an accessory more useless than the Champagne Parachute, do let us know. We’ve put a link to the website for this device just to show it really does exist.

For now, I’m going to ignore a suggestion that if we were to have cork-shooting contests to see who could shake the bottle the hardest, this device would aid in judging the distance. Some people just need a little work.

www.iwantoneofthose.com/champagne-parachute/index.html

Note: Dom Perignon is the Benedictine monk credited with inventing champagne. We hope he really did have as much fun as it appears in the saucy illustration above and can only imagine what might have happened if someone really did find the cork that night.

To Screw or Not to Screw: A Matter of Geography?

Controversy continues to rage about closures – and this year’s Playhouse WineFestival was no exception. Cork is king says the old world, stelven is stellar says the new.

Speaking at “The Iberian Criterion” seminar, Cristiano van Zeller, owner of Douro’s Quita do Vale, got right to the point when a participant put the thorny question to the entire panel: what about stelven closures? While others squirmed uncomfortably and avoided eye contact, Cristiano spoke out in clear, ringing tone. “I’ll use cork. I’ll pay for the bottles returned because I believe cork is better – for the wine and for the environment.”

Now there’s no question this is a man with a sense of humour to go along with his extensive wine knowledge. Earlier, he’d explained the reason one of his wines is named Ecclesiastical Sin is because they are still, centuries later, trying to uncover the link between the Abbot of the monastery that once owned the vineyard and a lady of somewhat dubious repute named Dona Maria.

He’d also described his response when a journalist, intrigued by the concept of pressing grapes by foot, had once asked: but how do you get rid of the hair of the legs? “Simple, you just go ptoot, ptoot, ptoot.” His imitation was spirited and his grin irresistible. But when it came to closures, there was no room for debate. Cork is king in Cristiano’s vineyards.

Fast forward to the following evening at a lively tasting of Aussie Shirazes entitled Regional Heroes. “I don’t want any more of those filthy rotten corks,” said Bruce Tyrrell principal of Tyrrell Wines. A ripple of spontaneous applause went through the room.

From the back, the outspoken and much loved Aussie Master of Wines, Michael Hill Smith quickly forestalled another question. “And if you define romance in your life by the pop of a cork, you really need to get a life.” More applause, this time punctuated by a few cheers.

An interesting side note: this was also the only tasting we attended with a senior lady wine principal in evidence – Vicki Arnold, general manager of Glaetzer Heartland Wines shown here with Grant Tilbrook, Ben Glaetzer, and Scott Collett (left to right – we know you know which one Vicki is).

One final anecdote in the spirit of cultural exchange – a little known definition among gourmets from Down Under. Moderator Mark Davidson maintained an absolutely straight face as he informed the gathered group that it was on a visit to the Margaret River wine district he learned the local definition of a seven-course Australian dinner: that would be a six-pack and a meat pie.

Seriously, this was our favourite of all the wine tasting. More than a superb opportunity to experience the true breath of Australia’s most famous grape, it was gave us insight into the life philosophy of Australian winemakers. It’s true – every one of them present could legitimately be classified as “a character.” Good natured banter is clearly as much a part of the heritage of these wines as the grapes themselves. Descriptors included such scientific gems as “yummy” or “bloody delicious.”

And while debate over cork versus stelven will likely remain as hot as the Aussie sun far into the future, one panelist finally asked an even more burning question. “What’s the difference between a winemaker and god?” The answer is simple. God doesn’t think he’s a winemaker.

Photos at the top of the page courtesy of Heartland Wines.

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

We’ve done it. We’ve survived the 29th Annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Three delicious days of swirling, sniffing, sipping, and savouring. We’ve made some new friends, re-connected with several old ones, and, as is the tradition of this annual extravaganza, discovered an astonishing number of new wines and wine knowledge. The theme this year was wines from Down Under with the grape varietal focus being Riesling. Here's a brief overview with more detail to follow.

Hands down the best value we found were the selection of sit down, formal tastings – an opportunity to compare as many as 14 wines related by grape varietal, country, or producer. Top of our list was “Aussie Shiraz: Regional Heroes” – an eye-opening comparison of Shiraz wines from every region of Australia. The diversity left us breathless. And good news for Frank, these were a long, long way from the fat, in your face tannic bombs most often associated with Aussie Shiraz.Smooth, delicious, and boasting a long, long finish several he freely admitted would challenge the most sophisticated WSET hopeful to differenciate from a Cote Rotie.

We were far from the only festival-goers who agreed the International Tasting Room, while utterly spectacular in its breadth – 1,550 wines from 17 countries including more than 200 from Australia – was also overwhelming. We usually pick varietal as our method of attack for large venue tastings – typically concentrating on two whites followed by a couple of reds. It took about two minutes for us to recognize this was not going to happen when confronted with thousands of square feet of displays.

Ultimately, we settled on pursuing wines we either hadn’t seen or felt were unlikely to find elsewhere. Skalani from Boutari, a blend of Kotsifali and Syrah that’s coming soon to BC and Visanto, a blend of Assyrtiko and Aidani – both proving the point that this wine producer is about far more than cheap pizza wines.

Naousa has always been the Boutaris’spiritual and commercial center. The dining room at Dining Room at their Naousa Winery is a popular spot to experience this viticultural heritage.

Four Chateau Musar wines from Lebanon – the winemaker, a crusty white haired gent who definitively qualifies as a “character,” was not about to let anyone sample out of the order he felt best. And RPF Tannat from Pisano, the sole representative of Uruguay’s wine industry.

We tried Super Tuscans while people cued up for sparkling wines with a more aggressive marketing campaign behind them, and sipped a Maison M Chapoutier Viognier that was poetry in a glass – we both made a toast to the forward thinking vintners who said “No!” when this grape was nearing extinction.

In all, for any wine lover, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is still one to mark on your calendar. For info on next year’s event, check out www.playhousewinefest.com.

Ramblings Around Riesling

It’s the second day of the Playhouse Wine Festival here in Vancouver. Four days of wine tastings, seminars, and chatting with other people in the wine industry. Now only one year shy of its third decade anniversary, this year’s annual extravaganza features 1,550 wines from 180 wineries in 17 countries. It’s going to be a totally delicious, decadent challenge to keep up.

We’re just back from a Riesling tasting – Riesling being the featured grape for the 2007 Festival. More complete notes will follow later, but here are a couple of decidedly non-vintage, though utterly intriguing, stories you probably won’t hear often.

A spontaneous round of applause went to the speaker from Maximin Grunhauser for his enchanting, almost whimsical account of the business challenges faced by medieval monks who originally planted the estate in 966AD. At that time, each monk was given a daily allowance of wine as a form of “payment” for their work in the vineyard. Considered a fair price, each brother was entitled to three litres of wine a day. Only one full meal, but three litres of wine – 21st Century diet divas take note, there are wonderful things to be said about the nutritional values of wine.

Then came a couple of years of bad harvest. Since large amounts of the monastery’s production often remained at home, the abbot of the day decided to reduce the allotment to a mere two litres per day. Monks began falling ill, languishing in their cells, and failing to attend prayers or mass. In despair, the abbot called in a physician who is reputed to have said, “Abbot, you may be a man of God, but you are not a man of business. You have to fill the cask or it will rot and the stomachs of the monk are no longer full, thus they are ailing from rotten stomachs.” The abbot in his wisdom, immediately increased the daily allowance back to three litres in order it should not rot the brothers' insides, and soon the monks were, once again, filling the church with their prayers and their voices raised in song. Yes, god works in mysterious ways.

While most wine aficionados know Wolf, founder of the acclaimed Wolf Blass Winery, was born in East Germany, worked in the European wine industry for 13 years before immigrating to Australia’s Barossa Valley in 1961, and has long been considered a leader among the new generation of Australian winemakers, here’s lesser known peek at the face behind the label. According Scott (who’s last name we unfortunately both missed) tonight’s presenter from the winery, if you were to ask Wolf to name his three greatest passions in life, the answer would be: fast women, slow racehorses, and great Riesling. Okay, so we don’t get the slow race horses either, but we can certainly agree on the last comment.

The taste of the Rieslings from France through Germany and Austria, across to North America, and right on over the ocean to the Land of Oz is still lingering on our taste buds. Here’s to the King of Grapes.

Oz Meet Mosel Mogel

Wait a minute. A Down Under winemaker showing off a bottle of German Riesling and a Mosel Mogul with big, fat Aussie Cab in hand? In the gregarious spirit of Old World meets New, award-winning winemakers Stuart Blackwell (left) and Ernst Loosen (right) swap bottles to give us journalistic types a stellar photo op.

The event was an LCB tasting of Dr L Riesling from Dr Loosen Vineyards and two offerings from Australia’s Barossa – Gamekeeper’s Reserve and Faith Shiraz by St Hallett Wines. Food and laughter flowed freely, and it was soon apparent the two are actually good chums – or should that be mates?

Most of us began with the Dr L Riesling, a delicate and fruity example of why many wine aficionados consider this grape a much under-rated King of the Vines. Ernst punctuated his commentary with witty, often charmingly irreverent anecdotes about the history of Mosel wines, the intervention of the Catholic Church in winemaking during the Middle Ages, and how, on a recent sales trip to India, people were astonished to learn there are just 500 residents in the village by his vineyard – “why, that’s how many we have in our corner yard.”

Starting with a cheery “G’day,” Stuart took us on a quick tour of the vineyard courtesy of PowerPoint. Because Barossa has never been plagued by Phylloxera, many of the local vines boast pedigrees going back more than a century. To prove it,Stuart produced a shot of a 126-year-old-vine with a “really big, beautiful butt” that's still producing enviable quantities of grapes year after year. Whoa – that’s one big mama of a vine.

The Gamekeeper’s Reserve – a blend of Shiraz, Grenache, and just a touch of Touriga Nacional for a hint of rose petals – is a steal at $14. Sure it’s a perfect pizza wine, but all agreed it had plenty of robustness to carry off a heartier barbeque pairing as well. Still, my favourite of the three had to be the Faith Shiraz – okay, so Frank could have predicted that. It slid across my tongue, rich and creamy, lingering like a satin bathrobe on a model’s shoulders. And yes, if Frank can ever get the lipstick off the Riedel, there’s now a bottle in the wine cellar for a second, at home sampling.

PS: A big Thank You! goes to Jodi Rogers, product knowledge and event coordinator from the Cambie Street LCB store, for allowing us to use her cheeky photo of Stuart Blackwell and Ernst Loosen.

www.sthallett.com.au
www.drloosen.com

Riedel and Lipstick or Unlucky Pairings

Remember the sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach when you made a really bad choice in life? Something you knew, as you where doing it, would all go bad?

To my deep regret, after lots of pleading and begging, I let the young gentlemen from our last post borrow a pair of Riedel glasses to aid in his anticipated romantic liaison. Bad move – really, really bad move on my part. Just how bad it was going to get, I had no idea. But I had that sinking feeling as I agreed to lend them out.

Sunday morning I got a phone call asking where he could buy some of these wonderful glasses – he hadn’t been able to find any quite the same thing at the nearby dollar store. Having at that point only downed one cup of coffee and it still being rather early in the day, I didn’t pick up on the subtle messages being sent. I gave him the names of a few shops where he could find said glasses. Before I could ask him how the wine pairing with the object of his amorous desire went, the phone went dead.

Half way through my second cup of coffee, a voice mail arrived. Something was wrong with the glasses. I knew it would all become frighteningly self-evident soon. I was thinking of all the evil, nasty jobs I could give this guy when he next came onto my crew as a movie greensman. Digging ditches in a filthy, smelly swamp was the first thought that came to mind. I’ll forego mentioning some of the ones that came later.

A few hours later, the phone rang. Would I be home for a while? The young man wanted to return my wine glasses and two-stage corkscrew. All my evil thoughts dissipated. How little I knew.

He arrived carrying a Riedel box containing a brand new glass. I took one glance at the other glass and my worst fears were realized. Bright red lipstick – the brightest red lipstick I’ve ever seen. Now I know lipstick on crystal is hard to remove without using some form of nasty cleaning stuff, but this lipstick must be part Crazy Glue. It will just not come off.

His wallet – as he showed me – was empty. He’d already cashed in his beer cans, gathered up all his spare change, and borrowed some money from his mom to avoid the wrath he knew was coming his way. After beating on his head and shoulders for a while, he agreed another glass would becoming my way soon – not in the next ten minutes like I wanted, but by the end of the week. My visions of sending him into swamps became more focused.

Please, if there is any one who can tell me how to get the lipstick off, I would be grateful. If it involves a dishwasher, I’m out of luck as I am the dishwasher here. Meanwhile the red-rimmed glass sits on the counter.

Susan’s Note:

Okay, so is this where I get to say “I told you so”? No, of course not! When Frank announced he was going to actually loan out prized glasses, I merely made a mild mannered comment. “Oh, it rather surprises me that you’d agree.” What self-control – on my part, not his. He is, after all, the one who agreed.

Now you have to understand Frank’s hatred of lipstick is… intense. Lipstick of any colour has been know to send him into a tirade usually prefaced by something along the lines of “Don’t they know it’s whale blubber they’re putting on my glasses?” Red lipstick? You get the picture.

For now, I’ll content myself to surreptitiously smiling every time I see the red-rimmed glass perched regally on the counter. Mind you, I do have a interior designer friend who is well known for her love of using everyday objects to create unique, artsy accent pieces like lampshades or sculptured plant pots or picture frames. Perhaps I’ll pop by with some old lipstick tubes. After all, Frank’s birthday is just around the corner.

Riedel is found at www.riedel.com

Romance and Wine or Lucky Pairings

Spring must be lurking around the corner, hidden away in the rainy Vancouver weather. For our friends in Toronto, the daffodils are up and the magnolias are starting to bloom – ignore the rain comment.

It is Friday and I’ve already received a couple of interesting phone calls for help with food and wine pairing. Perhaps I should say hopeful pairings of another sort.

First, a young gentleman in his early twenties who works with me occasionally called with, what for him, was an unusual request. “I need the name of a French wine – preferably with a cork and some sort of castle on it.” Before I could get over the idea that I may have finally weaned him off of his Molson’s, hundreds of bottles that could work for him were already flashing through my mind. I needed more information.

Apparently he was having a young lady over for dinner. Ah ha, the motives quickly became more apparent. His budget – $20 or $30 max but the wine had to be really good. The young lady in question must be quite something. “Okay, why a castle on the bottle, and why does it have to have a cork? And does the young lady like red or white wine?”

“Red or white? Oh shit. I’ll get back to you.” Click.

I was still processing that information as the phone rang again. Busy morning. This call was from a very interesting woman friend in her late forties. “I’m having someone over for dinner. I need to have a really good wine.”

“What food are you pairing with?” A simple question, or so I thought.

“I want a wine for pairing with me. I’m not worried about the food.”

Right. Now I had the facts straight, I suggested an Amarone and – knowing of her extensive music selection – some smoky jazz from Billie Holiday or Dinah Washington. Yes, I assured her, two bottles would be enough. In fact, I was pretty confident that in her current frame of mind two bottles would be more than enough.

Within minutes, the phone rang again. The young man was back on the phone. “My sister says she likes a white wine – one from New Zealand she thinks.” All right, the object of his affections is probably drinking New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Taking a step up, Chateau Sancerre sprang to mind. Same grape but it does have a castle on the label and a cork.

I asked him why the castle and the cork? “I want to look cool, and nothing out of a box like other guys. By the way, can I borrow a corkscrew and a couple of those nice glasses you have?” The idea of my Riedel glasses leaving the house with this guy in charge of them for a few days did not sit well at all. The corkscrew – maybe. The glasses – no way. After all, you can only do so much to aid in the cause of love and romance.

Required Reading

My bank account, the wine cellar, and I sat down this afternoon and took a long look at the required and suggested reading lists for my WSET Diploma and CSW from the Society of Wine Educators. I plan to write the CSW at the Wine Educators conference in Monterey this June and have just started working on my WSET Diploma.

After much crosschecking and taking inventory of books already in my possession, the bank account went into total shock. Its color went from black to red, and its positive frame of mind suddenly turned rather negative.

Of course, then the wine cellar had to be informed that its addictive preference for Premier Crus Chablis, Amarone, Gaja, and Hugel Rieslings is about to be put in check. It didn’t want to hear about Yellow Tail at all. When informed there would be no more Veuve Clicquot, its temperature went from 48 degrees to 80 in about five seconds. “There are other sparking wines made in France,” I mentioned, which somewhat pacified the wine cellar as long as we could agree they would all be method classique and not something out of a tank. “Asti is made in the cuvee close method,” I told it. Since the cellar has not been taking any wine courses, it seemed fine with that.

On a slightly more serious note, though, we will be doing reviews on some of the books required for the various certifications, and our crack designer, Karin, will be putting this info up on the blog along with where to get them. I’d love to hear from any students about what books you found most beneficial and any others you discovered that aren’t on these lists. A favourite of mine is Jamie Goode’s The Science of Wine. Also, if you find some useful websites, feel free to send them along.

As I take another look at the reading list for the Masters of Wine, I try not to let either the bank account or the wine cellar see how lengthy it actually is. I ever get that far, I think I’ll have to marry someone who owns a bookshop.

WSET: http://www.wset.co.uk
Society Of Wine Educators: http://wine.gurus.com
Court Of Master Sommeliers: http://www.mastersommeliers.org/syllabus/certified
International Sommelier Guild: https://www.internationalsommelier.com
Masters Of Wine: http://www.masters-of-wine.org/reading.aspx

Canadian Wines, VQA, and Other Dark Secrets

There is a dark little secret hiding on Canadian wine labels. It lurks, often in camouflage, waiting for the unwary. In most cases, no one ever notices. Another con perpetuated.

But let’s start at the beginning. In Canada, some wines are known as VQA wines – Vintners Quality Alliance. Theses wines are easily identified by a neck label or by boldly printed letters on the label. They are from either Ontario or British Columbia, and each province administers this program independently.

Ontario rules say a VQA wine must be made from 100% grapes grown in Ontario. Much like Germany, there are rules on minimum sugar levels at harvest for each variety, a restriction that is important for quality especially in a cool weather wine region. Each wine is blind tasted by a panel who determine whether or not the wine demonstrates sufficient varietal character and approve the label. If the board is not satisfied, they can refuse to grant VQA status.

The VQA designation is an appellation system as well. The label can say Ontario Wine or have one of the 12 Ontario regions listed. (Note: Ice wine from Ontario has some different rules but we’ll explore those at a later date.) So far so good, right? In Ontario, the label has to state winery, area, grape variety – hybrids are permitted here – producer, and alcohol content. No secrets here.

With five wine regions and over 140 wineries, the province of British Columbia has almost the same rules but it is voluntary to belong to the VQA. In this province, VQA must be made from 95% BC grapes, and if the bottle says “Estate” on the label, 95% of the grapes must come from the vineyard listed. So far so good, still all above board. Buy a VQA wine and you’re buying a Canadian wine.

Now sometimes you’ll see a bottle of Canadian wine without the VQA label. Many very small producers don’t belong to the VQA program. Since they sell out their entire product every year, they aren’t concerned with having the VQA label and all the government paper work and hassle that goes with it. They simply list the wine region and grape variety on the label, and that’s what’s in the bottle. Once again, not a problem. You know what you’re buying.

So here’s where things get shady. There’s one more designation you’ll find on Canadian wine labels: Cellared in Canada. So if it’s cellared in Canada, it’s a Canadian wine right?

Sorry, wrong. That’s the dirty little secret being perpetuated on an unsuspecting public. Cellared in Canada wines could have very few Canadian-grown grapes in the bottle. In fact, they could have none at all. The only thing you know for sure is that the wine you’re holding in your hand was actually put into the bottle somewhere in Canada. The contents could be Aussie bulk wine, sell offs from southern France, tankers of grapes shipped up from Washington State or California. No wonder some Canadian Cabs taste like they’ve been grown in warm climates. That Merlot, if it is all Merlot, could come from anywhere – literally – in the world.

Even more astonishing, the various liquor control boards willingly contribute to this confusion by placing Cellared in Canada wines on the same shelves as VQA wines. In the three BC government liquor stores we checked, the aisles marked as VQA wines had more Cellared in Canada wines than VQA – by a factor of about three to one. To see what you are actually buying, you have to read the very, very small print. One producer even stooped to the tactic of embossing the miniscule font in a shiny, reflective gold material – unless you were actively looking for it, the Cellared in Canada notation simply looked like part of the graphic design.

Could it be that the government is more concerned with selling big companies wines – wines that clearly dominate on the shelves – than in helping the Canadian wine industry? We’ve talked to many small wineries who can’t get shelf space because their production is considered too small. Come on, LCB and LCBO. Stop misleading the consumer with your placement of Cellared in Canada wines. Try taking some of the conglomerate wines off the shelf and make way for a few of the outstanding Canadian wines this country produces. If we want an Aussie Shiraz or a Napa Valley Cab, we’ll walk to the appropriate aisle.

***

Here are two final bits of information to get you thinking.
Both BC and Ontario sell more Cellared in Canada wines than VQA.
Air Canada, our national airline, serves Cellared in Canada wines on their flights.

Wine Quote of the Day for March 20, 2007

Wine improves with age. The older I get, the better I like it.

Unknown

Brave New World Meets Wine

So when does a wine stop being a wine and becomes an engineered concoction?

Some of the world’s largest foods giants are now tackling this thorny question. And hold onto your wine glass, because it’s a question that may be puzzling wine lovers for years to come.

It’s called Nano-Engineered Wines. The premise is that you buy a liquid at the corner grocery store, then in the comfort of your own home, you nuke it in a correctly tuned microwave transmitter. In minutes, you can be sipping a glass of “wine” fully customized to your personal taste buds.

Apparently, microwaves activate microscopic nano capsules with an ability to convert the liquid into whatever wine tickles your fancy at the moment. Feel like a New Zealand style Sauvignon Blanc? Just program your trusty transmitter and voilia – cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush.

Prefer something a little more robust – say a big, bold Aussie Shiraz? Just dial in smoke and spice, maybe a little leather, and zap, it’s ready to go. If you want to be really different, how about making said Shiraz white? No problem. It’s all in the tuning of the microwaves. In fact, you’ll apparently even be able to dial or tune in (not quite sure what the terminology would have to be) the alcohol level. A Napa Cab at 7% perhaps?

And here’s another twist. Legions of unemployed wine critics – every wine would be a hundred points after all. Perhaps they would have to be more involved telling you how to dial up something like a Grand Cru Chablis.

Could this Orwellian scenario actually be the future of viniculture? No, somehow we can’t see this drink really being called wine because the definition of wines is fermented grape juice. The only possible good thing to come of it would be the death of the points system at last. Which goes to show there is a silver lining to every cloud.

Now lest you think we are making this up, here are some links to the articles we saw. So weird it has to be true? You be the judge.

www.nanowerk.com
observer.guardian.co.uk

Sparkling New Look

For those of you who have been following us for a while, we hope you’re enjoying our new look and the many additions to blanc-de-noir.

This is entirely due to the work of Karin Schmidlin from bluecreative. Karin has done wonders to improve the visual impact and feel of the blog and, as many of our readers have indicated, has made it a lot more user friendly.

I confess I know very little about the various computer languages, nor do I want to take time away from my wine studies to learn. My Mac and I get along quite well enough. Over the years, AutoCAD and I have also managed to develop a more or less working relationship for when I’m designing movie sets or landscaping projects.

Susan, on the other hand, can look at a computer or just walk by and it will stop working. I’ve seen her do things to her Mac that I wouldn’t have believed were possible. If the Internet crashes one day, it will probably be Susan’s fault.

So we both appreciate the creative inspiration Karin has already brought to blanc-de-noir and can’t wait to see the results of her future plans. Be sure to check out her website at www.bluecreative.ca. And Karin, the Riesling is on its way with our thanks.

Susan’s Note:

And just wait till you see what else she’s got in store. Karin, our hats are off to you. Thank you for your artistic input and for continuing to hound us for images – which we’ll get to you this week. And I promise, cross my heart, your computer is safe - I’ll never, ever touch it.

Wine Quote of the Day for March 16, 2007

What a marvelous sentiment. We raise our glasses to this man.

Writing in my sixty-fourth year, I can truthfully say that since I reached the age of discretion I have consistently drunk more than most people would say is good for me. Nor did I regret it. Wine has been for me a firm friend and a wise counselor. Often...wine has shown me matters in their true perspective, and has, as though by the touch of a magic wand, reduced great disasters to small inconveniences. Wine has lit up for me the pages of literature and revealed in life romance lurking in the commonplace. Wine has made me bold but not foolish; has induced me to say silly things but not to do them.

Duff Cooper, Old Men Forget.

Surviving the WSET Exam

The exam is over. Done at last. It’s difficult right now to tell whether I’m experiencing pure relief at the thought I can actually sleep later than 6:00 am this Saturday morning without becoming overwhelmed by stabbing pangs of guilt or whether there is a vague sense of let down – have run on adrenaline and drive for so many weeks, it’s hard to let go.

I’m fairly sure I’ve passed, I hope I passed with distinction or at least with merit. But for now, it is all in the hands of some anonymous examiner in London who, hopefully, will love my answers to the essay questions. If only I knew where and to whom to send that good bottle of Riesling… no, no, just kidding. There is an eight-week wait for the results – a long, long wait.

Have the 35 weeks plus hours and hours of study been worthwhile in retrospect? The program certainly focused my previously scattered learning methods. The advanced level covers just about every wine region in the world. It was a constant reminder of just how little I really knew about wine – and how much more there will always be to know.

For me, the most valuable tool was the WSET Systematic Approach to Tasting, an approach which practically and literally forces you into a more disciplined and thorough tasting technique.

I’ve met some nice people over the course of the three levels. It really helps to hear the comments and opinions other people have about the wines in front of you, the things one person may miss entirely. That was invaluable. Thank you to all my classmates from the last three levels for the time and notes shared.

What’s next? On to the Diploma Level in a week or two – just so much more to learn. Two years and many more wines to come. I will let you know how it progresses and would love to hear from anyone else taking the Diploma Level WSET – maybe an opportunity to compare notes and share knowledge?

For now, the books and notes in the living room, kitchen, and study have all been organized and put away – at least for a few days. Susan, I know I said I was going to take some time off – oh well, what can I say?

www.wset.co.uk
Diploma Guide: www.wset.co.uk/qualifications/diploma/default.asp
Advanced Level Guide: www.wset.co.uk/qualifications

Susan’s note:

Actually, I’d have been astonished if you took an entire month off. I’m impressed it only took 24 hours before the call of a wine book proved utterly irresistible.

Yes, folks, Frank decided to do some “light reading” the night after he wrote the final, and what did he choose? You got it – a wine book.

However, I must also tell you of his remarkable restraint on Tuesday, when only one hour after turning in his examination paper, we ran into a casual acquaintance at the local pub. (Yes, of course we were celebrating!) “So what’s the difference between a Cab and a Shiraz?” she asked innocently.

Frank’s eyes widened only slightly, probably not enough that she’d actually notice. I didn’t hear the entire explanation – I had to turn away so as not to offend because I lack the self-control Frank has, and my eyes went very wide, very quickly. She’s a nice enough gal, but her timing was, shall we say, a bit awkward. Still, Frank handled it with aplomb – as always.

Soon now it will be time to embark on another round of studies. But this time, you can be sure I’ll be reminding Frank more frequently about his last instructor’s advice: you need to drink more red wine!

It's D Day

6:30 am. Today is D Day, the day I sit the final exam for my Advanced WSET. I was wondering if like a hockey player before a big game, I would go unshaven today.

This evening will be the end of 22 weeks of intense study – 35 really, since I went straight from my Level Two into the Advanced Level.

Last chance to go over some areas this morning. It will not be possible to review it all today, so what areas shall it be? Ports, which I’m a little weak on, or back to the German wines laws? Actually, I can’t do the German wine law one more time – what will be will be when it comes to Germany. Stacks of tasting notes, books, classroom notes, and Jancis Robinson surround me. It will be a wonderful thing to get my living room back.

There is more than a little trepidation going on here I must admit. The essay questions are looming large. Four essays of four questions each. What will they be about? Italian wines I hope. Please, please be Italian wines, and I will be good for the rest of the year, I promise. One blind wine tasting. I am hoping for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – hope springs eternal I suppose. Multiple choice questions as well, testing trivia of wine areas around the world.

The coffee is ready and only a few hours left. Books cover the floor, the couch, the coffee table. All are screaming for attention. Off I go… except no Germany today.

Magnetic Millions

It was probably the strangest tasting Frank and I have ever attended. A room full of 50 wine aficionados, each one of us given ten wines, pen and paper, and crackers to cleanse the palate. Sounds normal enough. Then James Cluer gave us the tasting rules of the experiment that would form the basis of his Masters of Wine dissertation.

We had five minutes per pair to compare the ten wines in front of us. Are they the same wine? If so, stop here and relax while you watch the rest of the participants swirl, sniff, and consider. If not, the anticipated series of questions to answer. Not everyone has the same wines in front of them so even if I think my “C” and “D” wines are the same, Frank’s might not be. Spitting required – no swallowing allowed.

But here’s the real kicker – no speaking. Yikes. These folks are asking me to sip wine for half an hour and not talk about it? Somehow it just feels sacrilegious not discussing a good wine – or any wine for that matter. I confess that in my mind I named the brightly smiling, impeccably dressed women who wandered the aisles keeping a watchful eye on us tasters the “Spit Don’t Speak Brigade.”

Still, the event was fascinating and a whole lot of fun. And after we were done, we all made up for the half hour of non-talking. Theories ranged from “can someone with WSET training tell the difference in wines better than someone with no training” to “how much difference does it actually make in the taste of a wine if the vines are from one side of a vineyard as opposed to the other?” Someone even suggested all the pairs were, in fact, identical, and the study was simply to see how much the mere suggestion they might be different affected people’s response – do I smell an advertising ploy here?

Okay, so remember the “truth is stranger than fiction” cliché your mom always talked about? This evening proves mom was right. It was actually all about magnets. And if James has succeeded in proving magnets can affect the taste of wine for the better, he’s not only earned himself the coveted Masters of Wine certification, but he’s won a cool $1 million as well.

James was testing the controversial theory that by passing wine through a high-intensity magnetic field the small, hard tannins combine into larger, softer ones. The result is a smoother, softer beverage with more flavour, less bitterness, and a longer finish. And if it’s true, you too can achieve this remarkable transformation by adding a BevWizard to your accessories list.

BevWizard is a magnetic wine pourer marketed by Dr Pat Farrell, a medical doctor and himself a Master of Wine. According to Decanter, “US skeptic James Randi, whose Florida-based educational foundation is committed to providing reliable information about paranormal claims, is doubtful enough to offer a large cash prize to anyone who can prove the claims.” Yup, I'd say a million bucks would be classified as a large cash prize.

And here’s some more food for thought. Summerhill Winery in Kelowna has built an entire brand on what they say are the benefits of aging wines in a pyramid – better energy, better taste. “There is a definite and profound effect on liquids placed in sacred geometry,” says their website. Well, who’s to argue with the Egyptians anyway.

Did James do it? Are magnets about to change the way we enjoy wine? No one knows the final results of his study yet, but it seemed absolutely fitting it was on the day before Frank’s advanced level WSET exam we finally learned why we were sipping in silence back in January. Besides, think of all the at home research we could now do for ourselves. Ahhh, scientific method at it finest. In fact, I hear a bottle of Aramone calling right now.

www.bevwizard.com
www.summerhill.bc.ca
www.decanter.com/news/112353.html

Wine Quote of the Day for March 7, 2007

Alonso of Aragon was wont to say in commendation of age, that age appears to be best in four things - old wood to burn, old wine to drink, old friends to trust, and old authors to read.

Francis Bacon, 1624

Countdown to Exam

Tonight was Frank’s final class before his WSET advanced level exam. Swirl, smell, sip, repeat. Six wines later, his instructor says, “you really need to drink more red wine.” Ah ha, some small measure of vindication for my love of in-your-face, tooth staining, bold, red tannins.

But how come my Math or Chemistry instructors never gave me this kind of direction? Did I miss something between the atomic weights of hydrogen and ununoctium, between differential calculus and the trigonometry of architecture? Maybe I should force myself to read the book filled with formulas for blending wines and equations for malolactic fermentation and other techno “stuff” that Frank can actually remember. Then again, maybe not. Think I’ll just stick to contributing to his studies by opening a few more bottles of reds we haven’t tried yet and pouring.

Of a Romantic Nature

A couple of weeks ago, we were at a wine tasting led by Sandra Oldfield, winemaker at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards. As it often does, the subject of cork versus Stelvin (dare we actually be so crass as to refer to it as a screw cap?) was raised – and as it usually does, heated debate ensued. Finally one participant – a male – asked the burning question: But what about the romance of popping a cork? Sandra looked the man square in the eye, then slowly made eye contact with the rest of the women in the room. Here’s her reply:

I’ve always believed that if you need a cork for romance, you’re sitting at the table with the wrong man.

Every women present applauded.

Missing in Action?

I know Frank is still alive. At least, I’m pretty positive he is. We’ve even managed to have a few semi-conversations over the past few weeks – mostly punctuated by a look that’s a cross between shell shock and “oh my god, I can’t believe this is happening.”

The question is more, where is he? A couple of weeks ago he was in Spain. Prior to that, it was Germany, and now I think he’s somewhere in Greece – or was that the Land of Oz?

He’s also become obsessed with spirits – of the high alcohol kind rather than the mythic variety – and sometimes mumbles numbers like mantras. New oak, old oak, residual sugar, time in the barrel, cases produced, altitudes, acres cultivated – numbers spew from his mouth with but a few words of encouragement from me or anyone else for that matter. It’s probably a good thing he usually locks himself in the living room, because some folk’s sanity has come into question for less.

Now okay, I confess Frank isn’t actually in all those countries physically, but as his WSET exam gets closer –like 11 days away, although who’s counting – he might as well be. Every study session he focuses on a different area of the world, flipping back and forth between reference books at a speed that makes my head spin. I admit his “homework” often makes for some fascinating wine tastings and comparisons but pretty limited conversation. I’ve temporarily given up hope of prolonged philosophical discussions and resigned myself to two-hour dinners being a thing of the past. And lunch… well, who needs to eat when there’s Jancis Robinson to keep you company? (She does have a delightfully wicked sense of humour though.)

So if our postings get somewhat erratic over the next few weeks – please hang in there with us. And while Frank is still in shock over the fact that the past 22 week of this advanced level have flown by so fast, two hours ago he found out what’s involved in the diploma level. One hundred and four weeks plus days of exams. Think I’ll stick with helping out with the homework side of things.

Open That Bottle Night 2007

Saturday, February 25th, it was time for the annual tradition – OTBN. We each chose one because, hey, fair’s fair. Right? To our amazement, Susan chose white and Frank picked a red. Usually there’s no question it would have been the other way round, but something about the spirit of the event added a new dimension.

Susan’s Pick:
Muscat Ottonel 2004 (Hillside Estate Reserve Series)

I remember this being one of the first vintages we shared at the beginning of our true romance with wine. Sure, we already enjoyed wine and had learned a fair amount about it, but this was love.

We’d just spent a spur-of-the-moment, leisurely afternoon touring some of our local Fraser Valley vineyards and came across a VQA wine store. We needed something to go with dinner anyway, and there was a tasting happening. No brainer – we stopped in. Neither of us recall the first two wines, but when we took a sip of the Muscat Ottonel, our eyes opened wide. We barely said anything to each other – at that point our wine vocabulary was still somewhat limited. We bought half a case that day, and although the vintage we had on Saturday was a few years younger, it still carried memories of autumn sunshine and the beginning of a new relationship with wine.

Tasting Notes: Not just green apples but lusciously crisp, shiny green Granny Smith Apples here. A touch of citrus as the evening progressed. Although neither of us recall it being quite this acidic, it would go with the summer salads that are about ready to make a regular appearance as we move towards longer, sun-drenched days.

Frank’s Pick:
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003 (Domaine des Relagnes)

This was the oldest Chateauneuf-du-Pape currently in the wine cellar. At first, I wasn’t sure exactly which store I’d discovered it in, but once I realized it was from Marquis Wine Cellars, it seemed right for OTBN.

We’ve both spent more hours than perhaps we should admit to in Marquis, checking over the selection of wines you just can’t get anywhere else in Vancouver. This was where I first found the Condrieus that regularly take up space in the cellar, and where we were introduced to Seppelt’s Muscat – unfortunately no longer in stock – that came with the owner’s personal guarantee that if you didn’t like it, he’d give you your money back. Needless to say, we never requested a refund.

Tasting Notes: And now for something completely different, we both agreed this wine really is a cowboy in a tuxedo. Aromatic and full of old leather, dirt, and barnyard. Mushroom plus a hint of truffles came out later. The finish seems to go on as long as a prairie sunset.

We hope you enjoyed your 2007 Open That Bottle Night as much as we did. And we'd love to hear your stories.

Ozone For Your Health

Apparently the new wave in wine preservation has a name – and that name is ozone. Yup, the same stuff that keeps getting holes in it out there in the atmosphere could not only reduce the migraines and asthma some people experience from drinking wine but could actually super-charge wine’s antioxidant powers – like four times the antioxidant content of non-ozoned wines.

Researchers from the Technical University of Cartagena in Spain claim exposing grapes to ozone was 90% as effective as sulphur-dioxide in preventing decay and contained none of the side effects. So how to you say: win-win.

Wine Quote of the Day for February 24, 2007

I was in love with a beautiful blonde once. She drove me to drink; that’s the one thing I’m indebted to her for.

W C Fields in Never Give a Sucker an Even Break

Olé: Spanish Wines Explained

I was reviewing the text for my WSET today – again. That exam is coming up way too quickly. Spain was the area I chose for this study session which lead, naturally, to Tempranillo.

However, it seems the Spaniards cannot quite agree on the varietal names for their grapes – giving no end of aggravation to wine students everywhere. Tempranillo actually has many monikers depending on the region. Riberia del Duero calls it Tinto Fino, in Valdepenas it becomes Cencibel. It also goes under the guise of Tinto del Pais, Tinto de Toro, Tinto de Madrid, and probably a few I haven’t found yet.

I must agree though that with some of the young wines I’ve tasted from Spain, Tinto de Toro (literally translated as grape of the bull) is quite the accurate descriptor. Big, black grapes made into big, tough wines with lots of tannins. (Yes, it’s no surprise Susan loves their flamboyant, in your face nature.)

So while I was trying to put all these names in their right DOCs, I discovered a great website which lists the grapes, all their other names, and even includes a pronunciation guide. The only problem is I’ve found there are even more Spanish grape varietals than I was aware of.

Oh well, more time with Oz Clarke’s Encyclopedia of Grapes. I’ll probably have to open a bottle of something with Tempranillo in it – no matter what name they’ve decided to bottle it under – just to aid in sorting it all out.

Susan’s Note:

Now why was research never this much fun in school? So here’s some extra trivia for the day.

Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word “temprano” meaning “early” – a reference to its characteristic of ripening earlier than many other varietals.

According to Wikipedia, as well as being the grape varietal, Tinto is also:
- An area of Honduras sometimes counted as part of the Mosquito Coast
- A fictional country in the computer game series Suikoden
- The name of the highest hill in southern Scotland
- A river in southwest Andalusia, Spain

So now you know. And now it’s definitely time to open a bottle of something with Tempranillo inside it.

Catavino is an independent online informational resource dedicated to Spanish and Portuguese wines of the Iberian Peninsula. Check it out for yourself at www.catavino.net.

Wine Quote of the Day for February 20, 2007

Wine from long habit has become indispensable for my health, however I have lived temperately. I double the doctor’s recommendation of a glass and a half of wine a day and even treble it with a friend.

Thomas Jefferson

Open That Bottle Night 2007

Come on now, ’fes up. You’ve got a bottle (or two) of wine you’ve been saving for a special occasion. You know, the one with memories. The one that makes you think of your best friend or that first trip to Napa or your parent’s 50th wedding anniversary. Maybe it’s the Louise Latoure that made you realize you actually do like Pinot Noir or the Veuve Clicquot Champagne that went so perfectly with oysters.

Whatever your special wine is, you’ve probably been saving it a long time.

Well save no longer, because this Saturday, February 24th,it’s time for the ninth annual Open That Bottle Night. This great tradition started on the last Saturday of February, 2000, when Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal, suggested readers should crack open a bottle of symbolically significant wine and email them the ensuing story of the event. From a 1986 Lafite with pizza to a treasured 1916 Zinfandel from an Italian Swiss Colony, from a research station in the Antarctic to the house just down the street, stories poured in from around the world.

Today OTBN has become a global celebration. The evening is not nearly so much about the wine itself as about fond memories, great friends, and celebrating life everyday. We haven’t decided what wine we’ll be drinking, but you can be sure there will be at least one less bottle in the cellar and one more memory in our hearts by the end of the evening.

And if you feel so moved, share your story with us. We'd love to hear from you.

Wine Quote of the Day for February 18, 2007

With Frank now back from the US of A, it seemed appropriate to share a quote from one of our neighbour's presidents. Alas, neither of us know which wine is Jefferson was savouring at the time he said this.

By making this wine vine known to the public, I have rendered my country as great a service as if I had enabled it to pay back the national debt.

Thomas Jefferson

Adventures in Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands Wines

So what’s wrong with this picture? Between business meetings, Frank is “doing New Orleans” – street musicians, the Blue Train, Cajun cuisine, deciding which two bottles of wine to bring home duty free. It’s raining here in Vancouver. And he still won’t tell me which two wines he’s bringing home. Hmmm. I need some consolation.

Thankfully, there’s a BC Wine Appreciation Society (BCWAS) wine tasting and a couple of the vintages aren’t available for love nor money even at the winery – certainly not in New Orleans. Tonight’s vintages are all wines from British Columbia’s emerging wine production area of Vancouver Island – a region neither of us have had much opportunity to explore. I grab a cab – the four-wheeled kind – and head downtown.

Here they are in the order we sipped them.

#1: Blue Grouse Vineyards’ 2005 Pinot Gris ($20)
Made from 100% estate grown grapes, this wine is crisp, refreshing, and considered the vineyard’s signature wine. Medium finish and would go great with fish or for sipping.

#2: Morning Bay Vineyards’ 2004 Riesling ($16)
This Riesling is produced using grapes from some of the oldest vinifera vines in Canada – the Inkameep Vineyards in Osoyoos. Classically Alsace in style, this wine is bone dry, angular, and has a long finish. Lots of petrol and minerality – in other words quite yummy as most of us at the table agreed.

#3: Blue Grouse Vineyards’2004 Ortega ($15)
A couple of my tablemates had never heard of the Ortega grape but, like me, were delighted by its floral nose and hints of summer fruit – think apricot and peach here. However this was definitely one I’d need Frank’s expertise for a food pairing suggestion. Good for sipping? You bet – especially at the price.

#4: Morning Bay Vineyards’ 2005 Pinot Gris ($18)
Barrel aged on new oak for a month, this wine is unabashedly unusual in its “bold, expressive style.” A bit toasty on the nose and with some subtle coffee overtone, there was a surprising fruitiness on the palette. Okay, so I’d expected to hate it because I’m not a fan of oak, but it somehow brought out a richness and depth I wasn’t expecting. Perhaps I should have known since it was from Black Sage Bench fruit.

#5: Winchester Cellars’ 2005 Chardonnay ($22)
Frank missed out on this one – it was a special treat for members of BCWAS and is no longer available. Big bodied, dense, and buttery, this Chardonnay was aged in French oak and has a rich, velvety texture. Classic styling and elegantly long finish.

And now we get to my favourite part of the evening – the reds.

#6: Saturna Island Vineyards’ 2004 Pinot Noir ($16)
A true summertime patio sipper, this wine is light and makes me think I’ve fallen face-first into a bucket of strawberries and raspberries. If I make the time to wipe off the red juice running down my cheek, there’s also a hint of spice and green tea. Some people smelled hints of beetroot and rhubarb, but being a fan of neither one, I just let the berry flavours wander across my taste buds.

#7: Blue Grouse Vineyards’2003 Pinot Noir ($22)
Fuller and darker, this Pinot Noir was the result of an unusually hot year. Distinctively New World in style, it exhibits a smooth, round texture. Lots of cherry cough drops and strawberry penny candy – okay maybe today that would more accurately be strawberry dime candy but you get the taste.

#8: Winchester Cellars’ 2004 Pinot Noir ($29)
My favourite because of its full, smooth, roundness and body, this wine spent 15 months in French oak. Black cherry with a hint of coffee, I’m instantly thinking barbequed salmon and intense conversations to match the length of the finish. Another gem not available – not that I’m gloating…much.

#9: Morning Bay Vineyards’ 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon ($22.50)
A silky lady in a velvet gown, this wine is pucker-power dry with lots of tannins – in other words, Frank would love the balance but roll his eyes at the tannins. Blackberry, blueberry, and chocolate with a hint of sagebrush and dusty hills – it’s all about food with this wine. Should improve even more with age.

#10: Morning Bay Vineyards’ 2003 Reserve Merlot ($27)
Barrel aged for over two years, this Merlot morphs from hints of plums through vanilla and truffles to a lingering chocolate finish. Great example of just how far New World Merlot has come. Only 120 cases made, if you weren’t there, you missed out.


The Links You Need:

BC Wine Appreciation Society: www.bcwas.com

Morning Bay Vineyard & Estate Winery: www.morningbay.ca
Blue Grouse Vineyards and Winery: www.bluegrousevineyards.com
Saturna Island Family Estate Winery: www.saturnavineyards.com
Winchester Cellars: www.winchestercellars.com

Wine Quote of the Day for February 15, 2007

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive, well preserved body. Rather the goal should be to skid in sideways at full speed – chilled wine in one hand, chocolate in the other - totally worn out, body thoroughly used up, and screaming, “WOO HOO! What a Ride!”

What more can we say?

Wine Quote of the Day for February 14, 2007

On February 14th, what could be better than Champagne to toast the ones we love? And who better to speak to the delights of bubbly than the Grand Lady of Champagne herself, Lily Bollinger. Lily was once asked, “When do you drink champagne?” Here’s her reply.

I only drink champagne when I’m happy… and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.

Happy Valentines Day!

Weekends With Jancis

Jancis has taken over my weekends, my life, and most of the living room. I cannot move in the apartment with out her presence demanding my attention. When I sit on the couch, she is there. She drapes herself over the coffee table. I often have to step over her because she is sprawling across the floor. The woman consumes every spare moment I have. Sometimes I want to run out of the room screaming. Sometimes is all just too much.

Okay, I’m indulging in a bit of tongue-in-cheek. My WSET advanced exam is coming up far too quickly. Where have 22 weeks and a couple of hundred wines gone? Jancis Robinson wrote the definitive opus – The Oxford Companion to Wine – all six pounds off it. This tome has become a fixture on the coffee table. What space it does not take up is shared by Jancis’ World Atlas of Wine – which leaves no room for Vines and Grapes, her other essential reference work. This volume shares the floor with Jancis’ Wine Course.

Yes, I do have a few other references books – you know, like a hundred or so – Oz Clarke’s Wine Atlas as well as his Australian Wine Companion, Andre Domine’s massive Wine, books on champagne, on Burgundy, even a few on things like beer, cheeses, or corks.

But The Oxford Companion to Wines is the reference book, the one that has all the info you need to know to pass the WSET – as well as some things you never even imagined you need to know. It’s also required reading for the two-year WSET Diploma course that will start for me in a month or so. Two more years of daily – sometimes many times an hour – of following one reference to another.

I guess I have to accept Jancis has moved in for a few years – more likely for the rest of my life. Stay tuned to see how the relationship will hold out.

Vintage Haiku

It's true - sometimes we discover things in our inboxes and have absolutely no idea where they came from. Sometimes they're educational, sometimes they're just pure fun. Like these Vintage Haikus we thought were worth sharing.Enjoy.


Bridlewood Estate Reserve Shiraz 2002 (California)
A bit new age-y:
Fruity adult lollipop
In a catcher’s mitt.


Molly Dooker ‘The Boxer’ Shiraz 2005 (Australia)
A laughing monster
Rip roaring fat and muscle
Hundred pound baby

Gristina Merlot 2000 (Long Island)
A sweet, windswept thing.
Long Island October chill
Route for the home team.

Vale Da Torre 2004 (Portugal)
Wine from Portugal
Is a unique animal.
This one barks a bit

McPherson Murray Darling Merlot 2003 (Australia)
Fills the mouth quickly
And feels healthy going down:
Leisure Set sports drink.

Wine Quote of the Day

I have enjoyed great health at a great age because every day since I can remember, I have consumed a bottle of wine - except when I have not felt well. Then I have consumed two bottles.

Bishop of Seville

Wine Quote of the Day for February 8, 2007

If penicillin can cure those that are ill, Spanish sherry can bring the dead back to life.

Alexander Fleming

Wine Quote of the Day for February 7, 2007

Quickly, bring me a beaker of wine, so that I may wet my mind and say something clever.

Aristophanes

Wine Quote of the Day for February 5, 2007

Whiskey is a slap on the back, and champagne’s a heavy mist before my eyes.

Jimmy Stewart from the movie The Philadelphia Story

Wine Quote of the Day

What It's All About

Great wine has that marvelous quality of immediately establishing communication between those who are drinking it. Tasting it at table should not be a solitary activity and fine wine should not be drunk without comment. There are few pleasures which loosen the tongue as much as that of sharing wine, glass in hand. In essence it is easy to describe what one senses provided one has made a sufficient effort to notice it. What is clearly perceived can be clearly expressed.

Emile Peynaud from The Taste of Wine.

Drink Wine, Get Rich

Here’s a gem we hope you’ll love as much as we did. A recent study by the Reason Foundation reveals the astonishing fact that people who drink earn more money than those poor souls who don’t. Between 10% and 14% more to be precise. Better yet, social drinkers typically have even higher incomes than people who stay home when they indulge.

According to the study, sipping at a pub or bar enhances your “social capital” which increases your potential of landing a better than average job. So how’s this quoted directly from the authors? “According to our hypothesis, drinking and socializing is a potentially productive investment that positively influences future earnings.” Right on.

And guess what guys, us women increase our odds even more than you – among full-time workers, men who drink earn 19% above their tee-totaling counterparts, women earn an additional 23%.

So cheers to the folks who just gave us yet another great “Reason” to pop a cork. Thanks boys and here’s to getting rich.

PS: The entire study, Why Drinkers Earn More Money Than Nondrinkers, can be found online at www.reason.org/pb44.pdf.


Frank’s Note:

Not only richer but sexier too. Checkout www.vinography.com and go to January 22, 2007. Then as Alder suggests, “Now go out there and be sexy!”

The Great Champagne Flute Caper

The plan was simple. A few dozen oysters, some champagne, bury our noses in couple of good novels – a much deserved, lazy Saturday afternoon. Simple, really simple. Frank volunteered to do battle with the holiday traffic and forage for our living room picnic.

He’s gone a long, long time.

F: Hi honey, traffic sucked. Oh and I made a bit of a detour to the wine store – and a couple of other stops.

Uh oh! Frank’s detours usually involve some new gadget, obscure culinary ingredient, or a vintage bottle for the collection. Still, grasped tightly in hand are a bag from our favourite oyster shop, a bottle that looks remarkably like champagne, and a box marked Riedel.

F: Had to improvise on the champagne – must have been a run on the one we wanted. Found some great new flutes though.

S: What on earth has he done now? New flutes might be nice. And what champagne did you find, dear? There’s something he isn’t telling me, I can smell it.

F: Seaview Brut. Better ratings than the $35 Vu Cliquoit and way less expensive – just over $12 actually. Got a bit carried away on the glasses, but oh well.

S: The glasses look a little… weird. He bought us a $12 bottle of champagne after the week we’ve both had? So how much did they cost?

F: Forty-five dollars. Riedel’s Vinum Extreme. They’re supposed to enhance the taste of the champagne.

S: Now let me get this straight. You just bought us a $12 bottle of champagne and spent $45 on champagne glasses that look like a lesson in geometry? This time, I’m afraid he’s lost it totally.

F: Well actually it was $45 each.

S: So you’re saying there’s something fundamentally wrong with our $5 flutes? Not to mention there isn’t another square inch of free storage space anywhere in the kitchen or the dining room.

F: Apparently, but look at it as a taste test, an adventure. They’d better be good or I’m going to have a heck of a time justifying $90. Ready for some oysters?

The shucking board, lemon, and oyster knives magically appear on the kitchen counter. There’s the comforting sound of a bottle being placed in a bucket of ice, followed almost immediately by the rhythmic sound of shells cracking open.

S: And exactly why are these supposed to be so much better than what we always use? I can’t wait to hear this one.

F: Technological breakthrough. Apparently, Riedel spent thousands on research so the champagne hits your tongue in exactly the right spot. Mind you, I like Robert Parker’s explanation better – it’s flat out hedonistic indulgence.

S: Okay, so hedonistic is good. It better be at this price.

Twenty minutes later, our urban picnic is on the coffee table – three types of oysters, a $12 bottle of champagne, and $90 worth of champagne glasses. Frank pours taste testers into the two new additions to the glass collection and another into the cheapie flutes we’ve used successfully for parties, impromptu visits, and for no special reason special evenings.

S: Hmm. Well I have to admit the bubbles look different – more concentrated in the center of the glass and stronger.

F: Better nose too. Check it out. Ha, she’ll have to admit the nose is better too.

S: Okay, so you’re right – better nose. All right, tasting time.

There’s a lengthy pause. We stare at each other in silence.

F: Crisper on the palette, longer finish.

We alternate sips from each glass. No question – better nose, better finish, more crispness. It’s just plain better out of the Reidel. And the bubbles are still strong. Neither of us mentions that the contents of the $5 regulars are both virtually flat already. Neither one will ever admit to being the one who discreetly removed the $5 flutes.

S: And there are how many different glasses in this line?

F: Oh a bunch. You know, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cab, New World Chardonnay, Old World Chardonnay…

S: Hold it, there are two different glasses depending on where the Chardonnay is made? And exactly how many is “a bunch?” Do I really want to know?

F: About 30. Ready for more oysters?

Over the next two months, the wine glass collections mysteriously grew by a factor of about 500%. We even discovered the correct glass for Tempranillo, a varietal we were only just beginning to love. Eight months later, while entertaining an enthusiastic if eclectic group of friends, we heard a crash from the general direction of the kitchen. As we swept up the remains of the now infamous Reidel Vinum Extreme Champagne flutes, we exchanged glances. No need to say anything, the next day’s schedule would include a trip to the stemware store.

FYI: two of our favourite Vancouver spots to shop for Reidel (and a whole bunch of other interesting stuff) are Puddifoot’s in Vancouver and Herzog Crystal in West Vancouver. Surprisingly, neither have a web page so you’ll just have to visit in person.

Susan Note:

This story actually occurred at the beginning of our serious exploration of the world of wines. Today, although Frank still uses the ISO glasses for official tastings, neither of us think twice about expanding the Reidel collection. To the on-going amusement of many of our friends, we’ve also convinced our favourite pub to let us tuck a matched pair of red and white Reidel glasses behind the bar. What can we say? The wine there just tastes better now.

Frank Issues a Reader Challenge

The Challenge:

Help! The Canadian government is about to grudgingly let me bring two bottles of wine into Canada duty free. I have a one-week business trip coming up in New Orleans, and under the rules of the game, that means I get to bring two bottles of wine home. Now while I could wish for more latitude – two bottles does seem rather a pittance – I’m not about to turn down the opportunity.

But here’s the quandary. In BC we have a choice – if you can call it that – of about 1,600 different wines. Suddenly I’m going to have access to what – 5,000? 7,000? 10,000? There are more than 4,000 wineries in the United States. If each made only two wines – and certainly it’s a rare winery that makes only two wines – suddenly my available choices have more than quadrupled. Add in all the import vintages and who knows just how big the selection I’ll be surrounded by really is. In fact, I did some quick Internet research – no one seems to know exactly how many different wines actually are available in the US.

But I can only have two. So which two do I choose?

Perhaps something French – Bordeaux or a Burgundy Grand Cru that never see shelf space at the LCB? How about a Champagne from one of the small, boutique houses? What about one of the much-touted Pinot Noirs from Oregon or a big, fat, in your face Napa Cab cult wine? Maybe one of my faves, an Italian Amarone from a producer we’ve never tried? Should it be a Parker big point wine or an unrated but potentially knock-your-socks-off discovery?

And as the quandary about the actual wines gets bigger, I realize some moral aspects are entering the equation. Two bottles of something different, maybe never to be seen at home in BC again. Should I be greedy or do I share the bonanza?

So readers, here’s your chance to help us pick which two wines they should be. Think: desert island, two bottles of wine. Send us your suggestions, comments, and moral dilemma problem solving expertise. We’ll let you know in February how it shakes down and post some tasting notes too.

Susan’s Note:

My mind boggles at the selection, but not so much that I’m not already polishing the wine glasses. And two of them are for the Amarone – not that I’m hinting, well not much.

Amarone Meets Rossini and Callas

Frank’s Food and Wine Pairing

I’ve always wondered why Rossini retired at the height of his fame. One day he was at the peak of popularity, the next he vanished from the musical scene of his day.

The story goes that he decided to quit writing operas so he could go home, eat, and enjoy the company of the fairer sex. It’s also said he claimed to be basically lazy and simply didn’t want to work any more.

What does all this have to do with wine? The other day I was going through a cookbook and came across some recipes attributed to Rossini. Browsing through them I could see why he may have had a weight problem. The combinations where intriguing, but all were food and wine pairing dilemmas. Apparently Rossini liked to have everything at once – meat, cheese, wines, spices. I decided to create Filletto alla Rossini – an utterly decadent combination of fillet of beef, truffles, sauces, and Marsala (recipe follows).

The wine I chose may be a little over the top, but I was look for something to stand up to the richness of this dish. It needed to be a big wine and, in keeping with the spirit of the recipe, it needed to be an Italian red.

Filletto alla Rossini is a complex creation and the debate was which part of the dish to match or complement. The mushrooms and truffles would need a little earthy note, the braised meat required some tannins, and the sauces are all over the place. Ultimately, the wine I chose was a Masi Amarone Costasera 1997. Besides, if the wine didn’t go well with the food, it would be certainly wonderful for sipping after the meal.

How did it work? The dish is absolutely decadent – so much contrast but as a whole quite wonderful. The sauces really do work with each other, the morels and truffles bring totally different flavours and textures but blend together well.

The wine was surprising. With the food, it became velvety in the mouth and the little bit of earthiness came much more forward. The hint of botrytis, barely noticeable when sipping this wine on it own, came right out with the truffles and mushrooms. There is also a minor amount of sweetness to the wine which added a pleasing dimension to the dish.

This food and wine pairing definitely worked. Actually, it more than worked – it is a great combination. Sip after sip and bite after delectable bite, both changed to bring out the best and the most delicate nuances of the other throughout the meal.

So where does Maria Callas fit into all this? Well, since I was eating a Rossini dish, naturally there was opera playing in the background. I had just finished dinner and was enjoying the feeling of contentment that comes after a good meal enjoyed over a long period of time when I heard the unmistakable voice of Callas coming from the speakers. Un Voce Poco Fa from the Barber of Seville. Another perfect pairing – the wine and singer both with good mid-palette and exceptionally long finish at the end. The Italians call Amarone a meditative wine, and Callas’ crystal clear tones are notes to contemplate. The food, the wine, the music – all stellar. We will have to do this one again.


Susan’s note:

I’ll leave it to your imaginations to suppose what happened when I discovered Frank had actually embarked on this gastronomic adventure without sharing. The words were a little “stronger” than “oh, you did this on your own did you?” I make no pretense my ability to whip up some epicurean fantasy is even close to Frank’s, but I have absolutely no remorse about savouring them – heck, I’ll even do the dishes.

While I haven’t yet convinced him to spend another afternoon preparing Filletto alla Rossini for two, we did soon spend a delicious evening indulging in a second bottle of Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 1997. It was everything he said it was and more – filled with flavour, rich, smooth, and ultimately satisfying. And as much as I share a passion for Rossini operas, I can’t help thinking the great composer was onto something when he decided to retire and spend the rest of his days enjoying such life pleasures as good wine, good food, and good company.

PS: Frank’s also offered to try out another wine and Rossini recipe pairing for two. Sometimes guilt works wonders.


The Wine:
Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 1997
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC
Grape varieties 70% Corvina, 25%Rondinella, 5% Molinara
Alcohol 15%


The Meal:Filletto alla Rossini

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
8 tsp/40 g butter
4 fillet steaks
1 tbsp flour
1/2 glass Marsala
Salt and pepper to taste
4 slices Gruyere cheese
4 generous slices Prosciutto de Parma
1/2 cup Béchamel Sauce
4 slices bread
Truffles (preferably white)
Morel mushrooms

Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy pan and fry the steaks. When the meat starts to brown, dust with flour, sprinkle with the Marsala, and boil until the sauce thickens. Season on both sides with salt and pepper. Braise the meat until it has absorbed the liquid, then remove and place in a flameproof dish. Lay the slices of cheese and ham on top of the meat, pour the Béchamel sauce over top, and bake for a few minutes in a preheated oven at 400°F (200°C) until the top is brown. Meanwhile add morels to the Marsala sauce. Fry the slices of bread in butter, surround with the Marsala sauce and Morels, and place the fillets on them. Top with sliced truffles. Enjoy!

From Culinaria Italy
ISBN: 3-8331-1133-X

The Perils and Problems of Points

Frank’s Rant:

I am getting very tired of the whole points thing with wine. Do we really need to grade our wine the same way we mark a high school exam? I have yet to find an art gallery that ranks their Monets from one to 100. Rossini arias, as far as I know, have never been assessed as 95 or 96 points. And what exactly is the difference between 89 and 90 points – other than the fact one will likely carry a higher price tag.

When you look at the shelf talkers hanging in front of the wine bins in your local liquor store, what do the numbers actually tell you? Is the bottle in front of you a fruit bomb or something elegant and silky? What food does it go with?

Points don’t tell you whether or not a wine is typical of the region. Typicite or tipicta – depending on whether you are French or Italian – is subjective I will admit, but it does tell me if that Sancerre is really typical of the area. Points don’t.

Nor does the point system give you any indication whether the wine is correctly made for the varietal. At a tasting the other night, we had a Viognier with so much oak in it, none of the fruit and aromas associated with that varietal survived. No peaches, no elusive bouquet. We would have been disappointed if we’d gone out and bought the wine. Yet someone gave it a high mark and thought it was a good one.

Subjective yes. But enjoying wine is, after all, highly subjective. What I like and what I can taste or smell is going to be different than the person sitting next to me. Susan and I can taste a wine and agree it is clear, has a clean nose, perhaps that it ruby rather than garnet. We can agree it is a tannic wine. We can go through a WSET tasting chart or a Davis sheet and give it no points or almost a perfect score. We can agree on all of this, and one of us may hate the wine while the other will love it.

For me, a premier cru Chablis or a Condrieu is bliss. For Susan, the more tannic a red wine is, the better. At a tasting, she can tell me “you won’t like this one.” But if it is well made with no faults, we might both give it a high score – I just don’t like it and she does.

I also sometimes wonder how wines are awarded their points in the glossy wine magazines. Rather too often, it seems big ads equate to big points – although I could be wrong on this one.

To me, assigning a number to a wine and adding tasting note of two lines or less tell you absolutely nothing. The only thing points do is help sell wines at the store level – you don’t need to know anything about wines and neither does the store. Many good wines will be passed by because they are from an area not covered by a critic and so have no magical point ranking.

Mind you, now that I think about it, perhaps this is a good thing. Some of my favorites may remain fairly priced and available. Stay away from the Loire Valley you wine critics, and all will be well.